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Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Behind the (former) Iron Curtain


First day of school entering the 8th grade I was excited for a number of reasons. A new football season was just about to begin, I couldn't wait to see who would be in my classes for the year, and of course being highest rung on the middle school totem pole has it's advantages. I had no idea walking into school that day that A) my fresh new sneakers would be stolen that afternoon at practice, and B) I'd meet a new kid fresh from Hawaii in my math class named Phil. Eight years later and I'd forgotten all about the shoes, but Phil recently reminded me of them while we were discussing our plans for my visit to Romania, where he is living at the moment. I couldn't wait to see my best friend.  
I touched down in Bucharest a few days ago and Phil has done a fine job of showing me around town. I guess things have come full circle for us as his stories of world travel all those years ago partially inspired me to get some of my own, Now here we are overseas together. There aren't loads of things to see in Bucharest so our schedule has been rather relaxed, but between catching up and enjoying the city's nightlife we have visited some cool places so far. 

The Palace
My first full day here we went to see the Palace of the Parliament, also known in English as the People's Palace. Built by misguided (and that's putting it lightly) communist despot Nicolae Ceauşescu, the Palace is the second largest building in the world to the Pentagon and a truly awe inspiring sight to beholdCeauşescu never got to see the building completed, but I'm guessing he would have been pleased as it really puts the White House to shame. For whatever reason, tour groups aren't allowed access to the palace's terrace, which offers an amazing view of Bucharest that any dictator would envy. Unfazed by such restrictions, we snuck away back through the palace near the end of our tour and were greeted by this dramatic scene. And yes I know that 'snuck' isn't a word but 'sneaked' just sounds idiotic. 


Phil lives right in the middle of Bucharest's old town, where many pre-communist buildings have somehow survived the test of time and remain as a reminder of the city's past. The neighborhood has been pedestrianized and is now a hub of retail and nightlife. Other structures, from grand mansions to orthodox churches and museums survive elsewhere as well, and although the architecture is definitely European, it retains an eastern character that I find immensely pleasing to the eye. One building of note is the Atheneum, known worldwide for its exemplary interior acoustics.

Couldnt find my picture of the Atheneum... so here is this bank instead. Still nice. 
In just a few days I've been all over the city. By now I know the benefits of travelling with someone who is familiar with a place, and since Phil has been living in Bucharest by himself for a few months now, he knows all the best spots. From cafes, clubs, and parks to delicious places for kebab and Romanian cuisine, I've been taking full advantage of the excellent exchange rate to make the most of my stay and get a real feel for the city. My overall impression is that it's not such a bad place all things considered. Given that the Iron Curtain fell some fifteen years ago, I am a bit surprised that the city hasn't come further in terms of aesthetic improvements, but I guess there is only so much you can do with ugly communist-era apartment blocks besides tear them down... and people need places to live. That said, I'm told the country is enjoying a healthy economy at the moment, and judging from the bustling malls and busy streets I don't doubt it. Back in the 1930's this place was on the rise, described glowingly as a lesser Paris. We all know what happened next, but I have to believe that at long last Bucharest will soon have its day in the sun. 

That's all for now, it's late here and tomorrow we have an early morning rendez-vous with a castle in Transylvania. More on that later. Here are some parting shots.